Every detail matters when it comes to achieving the perfect finish. For miniature painting enthusiasts – whether you’re working on fantasy tabletop miniatures or gauge railways, using a rattle can is a fundamental part of the process. A quick and efficient way to prime and prep. We explore spray spray can cap mechanics and discuss the importance of developing a spray can cap cleaning and maintenance routine. A deeper understanding help resolve to spray painting issues, and help you get the best results every time.
The Anatomy of Spray Can Caps
An interesting point to note early on is that both spray cans and caps can be either male or female. Understanding the anatomy of your spray cans will help you identify alternative caps. Caps (also known as nozzles and nibs) are those small plastic components that once pressed, release pressure from the can and fire out the paint. Available in a myriad of designs, akin to to paintbrushes. Different caps allow for different effects – just like brushes. Generally speaking a cap that creates a narrow line is known as a ‘skinny’ cap, and a cap that makes a wide one a ‘fat’ cap. Cap types then become more specialised, varying according to application and product. Tabletop artist primers for example often ship with a stock fine spray.
Whatever their forms, caps comprise three core components: a hood, a nozzle and a stem. Like many engineering components, both cans and caps can be male or female.
The Hood
The plastic you press to release paint vary in shape, ergonomics, size and colour, and can be either single or two piece in design. Two piece hoods feature a separate rather than integrated stem.
The Nozzle
Arguably the most critical component, directly influencing the quality and precision of paint application. A nozzle that gives precise control over the spray pattern can make a big difference, transforming a good finish into a great one. Nozzles come in various designs, suited to unique applications and spray patterns. In terms of identification, you’ll often see nozzles referred to as black dot, gold dot, pink dot and so on. Referencing the look of the nozzle on the hood, a dot. But there are plenty of alternative shapes.
The Stem
Last but not least the stem, the tube connecting the nozzle to the paint source, but not all caps have one. This distinction defines the difference between “male” and “female” caps. Male caps incorporate a stem, to fit female spray paint cans. Female caps don’t and fit to male cans. With single piece male caps the stem is permanently fixed, this is often case with stock caps. But there are two piece versions available with removable stems, designed to fit both female and male cans. With needle nose pliers, these stems can be carefully extracted, converting the male cap into a female version.
Why Cleaning Spray Caps Matters
1. Preventing Clogs and Sputtering
When a rattle can nozzle gets clogged, it disrupts the smooth, consistent spray needed for priming and base coating miniatures. Dried paint or debris build up in the nozzle can cause:
- Sputtering – leading to thick, uneven patches
- Weak sprays – resulting in poor coverage.
- Total blockages – more time needed for cleaning.
2. Ensuring Consistent Paint Flow
Clean nozzles allows for a steady flow of paint, helping to achieve:
- Smooth even coats with no texture issues.
- Proper atomisation – fine mist rather than large droplets.
- A more controlled application – reduced over-spraying
3. Reduce Product Wastage
By cleaning your rattle can caps after each use, you can reduce product wastage and get the most value out of each spray can.
How to Clean and Maintain Spray caps
Here’s a simple guide to keeping your caps in top condition and develop your own spray can cap cleaning and maintenance routine.
Method #1 – Flush & Wipe
After you’re done spraying, turn the can upside-down and press the hood until only clear propellant sprays out. This helps push any residual paint out of the nozzle to prevent blockages. Then with a paper towel, gently wipe away any excess around the nozzle. A little acetone can help dissolve any external paint. This doesn’t get everything out but it is reasonably effective.
Method #2 – Spray Acetone
If you want to get everything out then a spray acetone is the best line of defence. This looks like a regular spray can but is loaded with acetone rather than paint. Consult can instructions for PPE and safety. Pop the dirty nozzle on the top and spray to flush and clean the internal components. Then wipe the outside as before.
Method #4 – Soak
Carefully remove the whole cap and soak it in acetone, paint thinner or solvent spray. Using a thin pin or needle to clear out any hardened paint inside the nozzle and stem. Its worth having a spare cap to hand – its also well worth salvaging usable caps for spares prior to disposing of your spray cans.
Method #5 – Proper Storage
Store your spray cans upright in a cool, dry place. Avoid leaving them in cold garages or hot cars, as temperature extremes can affect pressure and performance.
Final Thoughts
Good Habits Lead to Better Results
Lessons from Graffiti artists – taking a few extra seconds to clean your rattle can cap will save you frustration in the long run. We found that prevention is a LOT easier, than cure.
We soaked one very clogged cap in acetone for 10 minutes (twice) and scraped out both nozzle and stem with a thin pin. While both nozzle and stem were almost debris free, results were not as good as we’d hoped. Residual debris floating in the acetone flushed back in and jammed, requiring additional work. The process did not live up to the ‘couple of minutes’ promoted online. Having said that, it worked well enough to save the cap.
Whether you’re priming a single figure or an entire army of miniatures, developing a spray can cap cleaning and maintenance routine makes sense. By developing good habits, you’ll improve your painting process and achieve consistently better results – giving your artistry the professional looking finish you deserve.
Happy painting!