Choosing Your Primer: Spray or Brush-On, Light or Dark Base?

Why Primer Matters?

A good primer is the unsung hero of any miniature painting project. It creates a grippy surface, smooths imperfections, and ensures your colours apply cleanly and stick for the long haul. But should you go with spray or brush-on? Black or white? Is that hardware store primer really okay to use on your new resin army? In this guide, we break down primer brands, types, colours and techniques. So you can confidently prep your minis and focus on the fun part: painting.

Choosing Your Primer – Key Factors Considered

Price, Logistics & Product Range/Information
Since our plan involves multiple primers, price and value for money were important. We also considered shipping and availability. Although in some cases very little information was available and online reviews tempting, we stuck with manufacturer statements. For simplicity, our starting point was to source from one brand, so broad colour range was a requirement. Something that will likely change as we get deeper in.

Delivery Mechanism: Rattle Can vs. Airbrush
While airbrushing offers superior control and a smoother finish, we decided against purchasing equipment at this stage. Our goal was priming rather than finishing and rattle cans offer a fast, efficient and economical solution.

Colour Selection
Choosing your primer colour/colours for the task in hand is essential for getting the desired result.

DARK: For dark or metallic schemes, enhancing shadows.
MID-TONE: Neutral choice for both dark and light schemes.
LIGHT: For bright, vibrant colour schemes.
COLOURED: Can speed up the painting process significantly.

To keep options open for both Zenithal and solid undershading, we aimed to select from each category. To either build highlights from the primer upwards, or craft them later with brushwork. If you want to go deeper into how primer colour affects your final paint job – including tonal value, paint transparency, and lighting theory – check out our companion guides: Primer Colour Decision for Miniature Painting and Colour Theory Your New best Friend. Explore the artistic and technical reasons behind your choice and how different colours interact with contrast paints, washes and more.

Brand Selection Process

With numerous brands appearing in search results, we started by examining three most highly ranked ones: Citadel, The Army Painter and Vallejo. Then explore those further down the search rankings and revisit brands we remember from childhood, such as Humbrol and Revell. To see if they had anything new to offer for miniature painting.

Vallejo: With minimal primer based information on their website it was difficult to find their product range. We did however, find a few Vallejo branded spray paint products on Amazon, ‘Hobby Paint’ being one of them. Used as a primer by hobbyists. The lack of official information and limited Hobby Paint colours led us to exclude Vallejo from our shortlist. For primers.

Citadel (Games Workshop): Citadel offers a wide range of readily available 400ml ‘Sprays’ for priming. Most are priced at £15, except Chaos Black (£13) and Retributor Armor (£21.50). While the exact number of spray colours can vary due to new releases or discontinuations, the range includes shades across all four of our required categories. Shortlisted.

The Army Painter: The Army Painter offers a comprehensive primer range with detailed information. Their 400ml coloured spray cans are well priced and primer product photos showcase the effect on miniatures. In three states: prepared, sprayed and painted. The accessibility of product information and visual representation of colours made this brand an easy addition to the shortlist. Straight to the top.

Revell: Revell, a familiar brand from our childhood model kits, offers a single spray primer: “Basic Color” in a 150ml can. Limited to one colour, this brand didn’t make the shortlist but remains interesting for future experimentation.

Humbrol: Humbrol, well known for model vehicle paints, offers one 150ml primer in Matt Grey. Though not suitable for our current requirements, Humbrol paints could be worth exploring later.

Green Stuff World (GSW): This Spanish brand offers four interesting rattle can sprays: Matt Ochre, Matt Green, Matt Red Rust and Matt Black, but lacks a white primer. While intriguing, the absence of a white option meant it didn’t make our final selection. However, GSW’s specialty sprays, like Chameleon Burning Gold (colour shifting effect based on viewing angle) easily warrant future exploration. It should be noted that there a GSW brush/airbrush primer is available in white.

Pro Acryl: Pro Acryl claims to produce “The Best Paint, Period.” Their black, white, and grey primers are available in large 500ml cans, with a visually inspiring website. However, due to shipping restrictions, these are only directly available in the US, making them impractical for our needs. At the time of writing, we could not find any local third party retailers.

AK Interactive (3rd Generation Primers): At €11.50 for 400ml, AK’s primers are budget-friendly and ship with two nozzles, standard and fine diffusion. A brief diversion into into nozzle types revealed five key spray patterns, with a fine mist being optimal for detail retention. While a strong contender, AK was ultimately set aside in favor of a brand offering more colour variety.

Why are we interested in nozzles? For graffiti artists, rattle can nozzles (or caps) are crucial tools that influence spray control, line width, and paint flow. Different nozzles serve distinct purposes: fat caps allow for wide, bold fills and expressive flares, while skinny caps provide precision for detailed work and clean outlines. The right nozzle can make the difference between a smooth gradient and an uneven spray, affecting both efficiency and artistic expression. Experienced artists often swap caps to achieve specific effects, making nozzle selection an essential aspect of their craft.

The Colour Forge: As a specialist manufacturer of primers and based in Sheffield UK, The Colour Forge stood out. And overtook The Army Painter on our shortlist. Their 500ml rattle cans are priced at a very economical £12. There are 33 colours in the collection, including a signature range. With no extra charge for metallic. The Colour Forge match their colours to Citadels acrylics and to ease decision making, provide colour conversion charts. Referencing to not only Citadel but also some Vallejo and The Army Painter colours. Supporting a UK based business while meeting requirements made The Colour Forge an obvious starting point. Prices based on 2025 data.

Final Thoughts

We don’t think there’s a wrong primer, just ones that meet requirements and seem right enough at the time. After thorough investigation, The Colour Forge rocketed to the top of our shortlist. Homegrown affordability and a wide colour selection sets the stage nicely. For the provision of product information kudos has to go The Army Painter, outstanding.

Next stop – choosing your primer colours

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a primer and why do I need it for miniature painting?

A primer is a base coat that helps paint stick to your miniature’s surface. Without it, your paint may peel, scratch or fail to adhere evenly. Primer also improves the final finish, colour vibrancy and longevity.
What’s the difference between spray and brush on primer?

Spray primers are quick, convenient and offer a smoother finish, more easily. Ideal for armies and batch painting. Brush on primers are great for small jobs or when spraying isn’t possible due to weather or workspace limitations. Both have pros and cons. Some miniature artists use both depending on the project. For spraying a further decision is required – rattle can or airbrush.
What’s the difference between spray can and airbrush priming?

RATTLE CAN:
Fast and convenient, just shaking required.
Limited control over spray pattern and pressure.
Good colour selection.
Cannot be colour mixed.
Low upfront cost and learning curve.
Humidity/cold can create textured finishes.
Requires ventilation.

AIRBRUSH:
Requires cleaning and setup time.
Much more control over coverage and finish.
Excellent colour selection.
Can be colour mixed within brands.
High upfront cost and learning curve.
Humidity/cold can create textured finishes.
Requires ventilation.

Both rattle cans (spray cans) and airbrushes are excellent for priming. If you’re just starting out, rattle cans are the easiest entry point. If you’re looking for consistency, control and a professional finish, upgrading to an airbrush later on might be worth it. Plus, by then you will know for sure is this is the hobby for you. For us cost was the deciding factor. We didn’t feel like we do enough priming to justify the expenditure. In terms of colour choice, since we’re focusing on priming there are more than enough rattle can colours in the marketplace to do the job well. The airbrush really shines on the final finish, where natural gradient is far easier to achieve. Again, if you spend a lot of time at your painting station then upgrading should be a consideration – research both new and second hand.
Can I use any spray paint as a primer?

Not really – general purpose spray paints often don’t bond well to miniatures and can obscure fine surface details. It’s best to use a primer specifically formulated for your material and application to ensure strong adhesion and a smooth, detail-preserving coat. That said, some miniature artists successfully use non-dedicated primers, but they usually test thoroughly for adhesion, finish and durability first. It’s not just about the paint, it’s also about the nozzle. Spray delivery plays a huge role in the final result. 👉 Want better results from your spray cans? Check out our article on Spray Can Cap Cleaning and Maintenance for tips on getting a consistent finish every time.
What colour primer should I use?

It depends on your painting goals. You can also try zenithal priming or coloured primers to speed up your workflow and guide your shading. If you see a zenithal priming kit that could be better value in the long run since you’ll likely get one of each of these. Plus you can experiment with zenithal too.

WHITE: Best for bright, vibrant colours.
GREY: A neutral, all purpose option.
BLACK: Ideal for darker schemes.
What is “zenithal priming” and is it worth trying?

Zenithal priming involves spraying a dark base (traditionally black but it doesn’t have to be), then two progressively lighter colours over the top. Sprayed from above to simulate lighting. This technique helps you see where shadows and highlights naturally fall, making it easier to paint further colour coats with depth and realism. Absolutely yes, this is worth trying. Even if its to find out that you don’t like it. Bear in mind though, it takes practice so don’t give up too early.
Do I need to prime every miniature before painting?

Skipping primer causes paint to beads, usage scratches uneven finishes. It’s one of the most common mistakes beginners make. And one of the easiest to fix. If you have ever done any DIY and painted some woodwork without priming it first then you’ll know what means. Painting over unprimed surfaces ‘feels’ different too, product doesn’t flow as well and the end result isn’t as good.
How do I avoid obscuring details when priming?

Spray in short, light passes rather than one thick heavy layer. Keep the can about 6 to 12 inches from the model. Rotate the model to reach all angles without flooding the crevices. Multiple thin, even coats will build up the primer coat slowly, preserve detail and give you a better painting surface. Choosing the right primer helps for the surface too – for instance we use a thicker consistency primer product to prime our 3D printed Textured Dry Palettes, palettes have a larger surface area and we want to fill in 3D print layer lines. Miniatures benefit from thinner specialist/hobby primers without filler properties.
Does primer colour affect the final paint job?

Absolutely. White brightens colours, black deepens shadows and grey offers a neutral base. It doesn’t change adhesion but it does influence colour perception.

FAQ

What is a primer and why do I need it for miniature painting?

A primer is a base coat that helps paint stick to your miniature’s surface. Without it, your paint may peel, scratch or fail to adhere evenly. Primer also improves the final finish, colour vibrancy and longevity.

Spray versus brush on primer?

Spray primers are quick, convenient and offer a smoother finish, more easily. Ideal for armies and batch painting. Brush on primers are great for small jobs or when spraying isn’t possible due to weather or workspace limitations. Both have pros and cons. Some miniature artists use both depending on the project. For spraying a further decision is required – rattle can or airbrush.

What’s the difference between spray can and airbrush priming?

RATTLE CAN:
Fast and convenient, just shaking required.
Limited control over spray pattern and pressure.
Good colour selection.
Cannot be colour mixed.
Low upfront cost and learning curve.
Humidity/cold can create textured finishes.
Requires ventilation.

AIRBRUSH:
Requires cleaning and setup time.
Much more control over coverage and finish.
Excellent colour selection.
Can be colour mixed within brands.
High upfront cost and learning curve.
Humidity/cold can create textured finishes.
Requires ventilation.

Both rattle cans (spray cans) and airbrushes are excellent for priming. If you’re just starting out, rattle cans are the easiest entry point. If you’re looking for consistency, control and a professional finish, upgrading to an airbrush later on might be worth it. Plus, by then you will know for sure is this is the hobby for you. For us cost was the deciding factor. We didn’t feel like we do enough priming to justify the expenditure. In terms of colour choice, since we’re focusing on priming there are more than enough rattle can colours in the marketplace to do the job well. The airbrush really shines on the final finish, where natural gradient is far easier to achieve. Again, if you spend a lot of time at your painting station then upgrading should be a consideration – research both new and second hand.

Can I use any spray paint as a primer?

Not really. General purpose spray paints often don’t bond well to miniatures and can obscure fine surface details. It’s best to use a primer specifically formulated for your material and application to ensure strong adhesion and a smooth, detail-preserving coat. That said, some miniature artists successfully use non-dedicated primers, but they usually test thoroughly for adhesion, finish and durability first. It’s not just about the paint, it’s also about the nozzle. Spray delivery plays a huge role in the final result. 👉 Want better results from your spray cans? Check out our article on Spray Can Cap Cleaning and Maintenance for tips on getting a consistent finish every time.

What colour primer should I use?

It depends on your painting goals. You can also try zenithal priming or coloured primers to speed up your workflow and guide your shading. If you see a zenithal priming kit that could be better value in the long run since you’ll likely get one of each of these. Plus you can experiment with zenithal too.

WHITE: Best for bright, vibrant colours.
GREY: A neutral, all purpose option.
BLACK: Ideal for darker schemes.

What is “zenithal priming” and is it worth trying?

Zenithal priming involves spraying a dark base (traditionally black but it doesn’t have to be), then two progressively lighter colours over the top. Sprayed from above to simulate lighting. This technique helps you see where shadows and highlights naturally fall, making it easier to paint further colour coats with depth and realism. Absolutely yes, this is worth trying. Even if its to find out that you don’t like it. Bear in mind though, it takes practice so don’t give up too early.

Do I need to prime every miniature before painting?

Skipping primer causes paint to beads, usage scratches uneven finishes. It’s one of the most common mistakes beginners make. And one of the easiest to fix. If you have ever done any DIY and painted some woodwork without priming it first then you’ll know what means. Painting over unprimed surfaces ‘feels’ different too, product doesn’t flow as well and the end result isn’t as good.

How do I avoid obscuring details when priming?

Spray in short, light passes rather than one thick heavy layer. Keep the can about 6 to 12 inches from the model. Rotate the model to reach all angles without flooding the crevices. Multiple thin, even coats will build up the primer coat slowly, preserve detail and give you a better painting surface. Choosing the right primer helps for the surface too – for instance we use a thicker consistency primer product to prime our 3D printed Textured Dry Palettes, palettes have a larger surface area and we want to fill in 3D print layer lines. Miniatures benefit from thinner specialist/hobby primers without filler properties.

Does primer colour affect the final paint job?

Absolutely. White brightens colours, black deepens shadows and grey offers a neutral base. It doesn’t change adhesion but it does influence colour perception.